How To Prospect Top Dogs And Put Your Sales Through The Roof

In light of the downward move of our economy, most of the sales organizations in this country are scared spitless. I hate living in fear. Bet you don't like it much either. What if you could earn lots more, in considerably less time, and feel mightily successful when your competitors are so scared they're spazzing out (haven’t used that phrase since high school) chasing their tails in circles, whimpering, "If buyers aren't buying we aren't going to have a business."

Top Dogs Want Your Calls

Believe It! Wouldn't your ears perk up and your tail wag with anticipation at the thought of spending your selling time in front of nothing but qualified prospects, with unlimited check writing privileges, and the ability to say, "Yes" to your solutions and services? Could you sit up and shake hands with prospects that remove obstacles for your implementation, significantly reduce frustrations, and sign off on multi-million dollar contracts with you?

Yes, even in a slow economy! These things can and do happen with Top Dog Selling Strategists. These top-dollar sales professionals thrive, regardless of economic conditions. They understand that a down economy gives them the Lead Dog's edge, a hunger for bigger contracts, better contracts, and faster contracts. With laser-like focus, they mercilessly scrutinize, prioritize and chew to shreds their least profitable sales practices and identify ways to leverage their time for more dollars.

What do they do to keep business strong? Make the change to Top Dog selling. They faithfully call on the presidents' offices of their existing clients and of prospect companies. Understanding there is no other single business decision like this change in selling strategy that will increase sales revenues geometrically.

A recent publication reported that firms are hiring additional sales staff to generate revenues. Most likely those companies justify their investment in salaries for more sales people by thinking these positions pay for themselves in terms of revenues generated. That's one approach. How ‘bout trying this, support your existing sales force with increasingly productive sales strategies. Leverage their profitability by transitioning to a top-down sales strategy. Make sure that a call below the office of the president no longer counts as a sales-call. Reward them as they schedule appointments with Top Dogs.

Sadly, sales professionals continue to use the bottom-up sales methods they were taught in the beginning of their careers, even though these habits bring in less than top dollar results. They steadfastly hold onto the familiar, in spite of reason. At this point, the commitment to a less profitable strategy is for some a desperate retreat to the safe and comfortable. For others, pure ignorance. If you are currently doing business with levels below the office of the president of your client companies, make a profitable change. Get in front of the president.

Top Dog Is Better Than "C" Level

Many an inexperienced pup will protest this idea and insist on being more inclusive ... saying with their nose up in the air, "My prospects are the people in charge of hiring, the CIO or some other 'C' level person." Listen up pups, Big Sales Dogs don't even bother to sniff at that kind of reasoning. Here's why. When you call Top Dogs first, you have everything to gain, nothing to lose.

First of all, you may get in to see the Top Dog and where else would you rather be than in front of the-buck-stops-here person with more decision-making authority (ability to say "Yes" to you) than any other person in the company?

Secondly, if a call to the president results in a referral to a "C-level" person, such as the CIO, your positioning is stronger than it would have been without that call. What started out as a cold call has quickly turned to a warm introduction from the President of the CIO's very own company. As you call the CIO you can honestly say, "Your president's office said you were the one to handle this call." A far more powerful opening line than, "Hello, my name is J. Doe with ABC Company." Don't you agree?

Change Your Prospecting "Hit" Ratio

Business to business numbers since the early 1950's have been 2 out of 10-meaning a sales pro who calls 10 prospects will get 2 appointments. It's a numbers game. When you add Top Dog selling strategies to the mix you see a staggering change. Top Dog Selling Strategists get as many as 8 out of 10, that's 8 appointments out of calls to 10 Top Dogs. That's a skills game. These skilled sales pros consistently prospect Top Dogs, presidents of companies; they learn how to control and direct the 90-seconds of telephone time they have with the Top Dog or his assistant. And they use benefit statements, open-ended, close-ended, and alternative of choice questions to their strategic advantage.

"'What?' A handful of you say as you recoil in horror. You want me to go over the heads of the people I'm working with now to meet with the president?" I understand the Naysayers are fearful of offending the lower-level people with whom they are currently doing business by going over their heads. No one is suggesting for you to sabotage your current low-level relationship. However, I am telling you straight up that the path to a level of selling that you never dared dream of is available to those who leave the comfort of the familiar for the potential of Top Dog selling.

Top Dog sales professionals learn to rule fear so it doesn't have a chance to rule them to a less productive end. Fear serves you well when it tells you that more information is needed before moving forward. And most sales pros, when given the words to say, will calm their fears enough to go over the heads of their existing low-level relationships and meet with Top Dogs, on their turf, where the big bucks are. Just tell your lower-level contacts that your new business directive calls for meeting with Top Dogs. And that you'll tell their president how pleasurable and profitable your working relationship has been. From The Top Dog's Viewpoint - What’s specifically and strategically not said is as important as what is said.

Take note, there is nothing in this scenario that asks permission from the lower-level person to speak to the Top Dog.

-Your job is to control the conversation. Politely, but firmly, convey the decision of your new selling strategy.

- Tell the president about your successful relationship with the lower-levels.

- Your praise of a former contact identifies you as a partnership player as opposed to an outsider who will climb over anyone to get to the top.

- The Top Dog will understand the business implications of your words, that is, your services have already proven to be profitable to his/her company.

- Less time is required for implementation of your services, as the people are familiar with your systems.

- Past success on a small scale suggests your services are a risk worth taking for success on a larger scale.

Look at your time and talents through the experienced eyes of the Big Sales Dogs who have gone before you. Apply their wisdom to your business, move to the head of the pack and enjoy frolicking with the Top Dogs as your sales go through the woof!

Forward this article to friends—they’ll thank you for it!

By: Leslie Buterin
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How to Understand & Prevent Dog Fights

Dogs are very active creatures that enjoy being able to run and jump and play. This need for physical activity is usually satisfied by being able to be outside for a specific time every day. Some dogs have no problem playing with humans, or other dogs; on the other hand, some dogs do not play well with other dogs. It is important to know your own dogs personality regarding fighting before you take a walk or go to a park where other dogs may be.

There are different reasons a dog fights other dogs, and each dog's case is different. Two dogs that live in the same house may have completely different reasons for wanting to fight other dogs. There are a couple ways of finding out why a dog fights, but neither one is used widely.

Both ways of finding out a reason for the fights involves a professional, but neither way is common because they do not get much results. The first is to take your dog to a professional to be analyzed. This does not get results because the dog can not answer questions, so it is hard for us to get a good idea of what happened in the past to lead the dog to act this way. The second way is for the owner to go see a professional and discuss the dogs issues and how to help them, this is also not very popular either.

One way you can try and understand the dog's aggression or reason to fight is to look at the present circumstances your dog is dealing with. Look at the dogs surroundings, and try to figure out what is causing this behavior. If your dog is fighting every time another dog tries to come onto his territory, maybe he is afraid that the intruder is going to hurt his owner, or himself.

Some dogs fight as a way to survive and obviously if your dog is being attacked you would want them to defend themselves. Dog fights are very serious and dangerous, if your dog is involved in a dog fight you will want to keep your distance so that you don't get hurt, unless you know what you are doing. Dog fights can cause serious damage to both dogs, and could end in the death of one or both of the dogs.

When you are trying to stop a dog fight the best way is to wait until you can safely grab a collar, this is the safest way to get involved. Chances are this will not stop the fight though, but it will help keep the dogs under control.

You will also want to be careful because one minute it could be friendly play between friends, but quickly turn into a serious dog fight. It is not the playful dog fighting that anybody is worried about, playful dog fights are a great way for young dogs to strengthen their limbs, and body. It is also a great way for dogs to burn off excess energy. Only by paying attention to your dogs personality will you be able to tell if they are involved in a playful fight or a more serious dog fight.

By: Nancy Dean
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How to trim your cat's nails

Remember, if you don't trim your cat's nails, they will find some way to scratch them down on their own... most likely on your furniture! (This is less of an issue for outdoor cats).

Trimming nails, like bathing can be a really fun, easy process if you know how.

Steps to trim your cat's nails:

1. Get your cat accustomed to having their feet and nails handled; whenever you're snuggling, take a moment to massage each paw.

2. Turn on a strong light. Trimming your cat's nails in good light will help you see the "quick" (the part of the nail containing nerves and blood vessels). Cutting into the "quick" is painful and will cause bleeding.

3. Have everything ready before you start. Cats don't like restraint, especially for long periods.

4. Place your cat in your lap, and gently hold one paw.

5. Unsheath your cat's retractable nails by placing your index finger underneath one toe and your thumb over the top of the same toe. Squeeze your fingers together gently. As you do this, you'll see the toenail protrude; it will remain extended until you release your hold.

6. Trim each nail just beyond the point where it starts to curve downward, using pet nail trimmers specifically designed for cats.

7. Start gradually, clipping a few nails in one sitting, using positive reinforcement such as petting or treats as you clip.

8. If bleeding occurs, apply pressure to the tip of the nail using styptic powder or a substitute such as baby powder or cotton balls.

9. Work up to trimming the nails on all four paws in one sitting.

Cats usually have five nails on each front foot and four on the rear, although they can be born with extra toes. The nails on extra toes tend to become ingrown and should be trimmed more frequently.

This is often a job for two people (one to hold the cat and one to trim the nails). An alternative to this method is to do it when they are asleep.

Avoid punishment or negative reinforcement if your cat protests the pedicure as cats generally don't respond well to this approach. Try again when you sense that your cat might be more cooperative.

Ideally, if you get your cat while they are still a kitten, make handing the paws part of the petting ritual. Begin to press on the pad to express the claws, just as you would if you were trimming. When kittens are asleep, they usually won't wake up or object to this. If your cat loses patience and you are not finished, do the rest another time. It is far better not to force it. And always pet your cat and tell them what a good kitty they are afterward, even if they are asleep!

Personally, I wrap my cats in a warm towel, snugly (but gently), which keeps them from moving while trimming. I take a few seconds in between each nail and pet them as it makes it more enjoyable for both of us. Also, when I am done, I give them a treat to reward them for how good they have been.

By: Mike Ray
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How to Train Your New Dog

Face it, nobody likes a dog that doesn't listen and behave. But everyone loves a dog that sits and stays on command.

If you have a barker or a jumper, it can be quite frustrating watching the dog ignore you every time company comes over. It's almost embarassing.

Your dog doesn't want to disappoint you. He has a natural desire to please you. When he's bad, he just doesn't know any better. I like to think there are no bad dogs, just good dogs that behave badly.

That is why you must train your dog to do more than eat and go outside. Your dog should be able to sit and stay on command, and sit there quietly for long periods of time.

Some dogs seem to learn things quickly. I had a black lab that learned to sit in five minutes. She caught on to just about everything right away.

Other dogs are a little slower. They are like kids with ADHD and can test your patience to the limit. There are many good books available online that will help you with these problem dogs.

The key to training any dog, be they fast or slow learners, is consistency. You must be willing to put out the effort to work with your dog daily. Preferably setting up your training about the same time every day.

This training time can be just 15 minutes a day, but it must get not only the dogs undivided attention, but yours as well. For that small investment of time over a period of a couple of months, you will enjoy the benefits for years to come.

You must also be consistent when dealing with specific bad behavior. For example, if your dog is a chewer you wouuld be well advised to make the consequence the same every time.

It could be a water gun shot to the face, or a pop on the butt with a rolled up newspaper. I prefer the water gun, and I am sure my dog did too.

Haven't you always been impressed by those dogs you see on TV getting a beer out of the fridge? Going out to get the paper on Sunday morning? Even your friends dog who stops whatever he is doing with a simple command?

There is no reason you can't have that dog if you are willing to put in the time. There are a lot of sources of learning material available that can make the job much easier and quicker, but you will be the deciding factor in your dogs success.

Your dog will put as much into their training as you do. Or as little. So if you think you are trying and not seeing results, get some help but never give up. Your dog is good and wants to please you.

By: Darell McKissick
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How To Stop Your Dog From Digging Holes In Your Garden

First, I need to figure out when he is digging.

Since I know the dog and his lifestyle, I can rule out several factors such as boredom or puppyhood or gophers, etc... I noticed that every time he would start digging holes he was in the yard playing with a friend's dog, unsupervised.

So, I first need to MAKE SURE that it was ACTUALLY MY DOG that was the perpetrator. A quick look at his feet would suggest that it was. Next, I needed to figure out if he would dig ANY TIME he was left alone in the yard or if it was only when another dog was present. To figure this out, I simply left the dog in the yard alone with access to the rose garden several times... and came back to find that he had not dug. So... it stands to reason that the only time my dog is digging in the yard is when there is another dog in the yard. (Who knows why? There could be a million unexplained reasons that only the dog knows. All I need in order to fix the behavior is knowledge of the dog and the circumstances). Now, I know that to fix any behavior problem I need to make the dog experience a NEGATIVE ASSOCIATION with the actual ACT of doing that behavior. In this case, digging in the garden.

And he needs to experience that same negative association EVERY TIME HE DIGS! In this case, I must be 100% diligent to never leave Forbes unsupervised in the yard when there is another dog in the yard. Of course, if he was digging by himself, then I'd need to confine him to a kennel run where he cannot dig when I'm not supervising him. Or if there is another dog visiting then I will need to bring Forbes inside, put him in the kennel run, or use the presence of the other dog as a "set up." The next step is to make sure that he associates that negative (correction) just as he starts to dig. There are two ways I can do this: The Lazy Man's Way and the Old Fashioned Way.

Both methods are based on the same principle. The Old Fashioned Way to make sure that the dog gets a motivational negative association when he digs is to:

Step 1.) Leave a pinch collar and tab (one foot leash) on the dog when he's outside in the yard with another dog.

Step 2.) Bury hardware mesh or chicken wire in the spot where he's been digging. The chicken wire should be buried two to three inches below the surface. Dogs don't like scraping their paws against this stuff. So, right off the bat you've got an immediate negative association.

Step 3.) Spy on him and just wait until he start to dig.

Step 4.) As soon as he begins to dig, yell "No No No!" as you run outside and give the dog a correction. As long as you continue to say "No no no" as you run to the dog, the dog WILL still associate the correction with the behavior.

Step 5.) Be 100% consistent until you are 100% sure that the dog isn't digging any more.

The Lazy Man's Way to fix this problem behavior is to use a remote electronic collar (e-collar). Everything else remains the same. (Click on the link above to read about my recommendations for buying a remote electronic training collar). When using the e-collar for this behavior, I'd turn the setting up to the high level.

Your goal is to create absolute avoidance to this behavior (digging in the garden). And you want him to think that the dirt just jumped up and bit him! Usually if you correct the dog with the electronic collar for this type of behavior, you've only got to do it twice before the dog decides that it's in his best interest to leave your garden alone.

By: Mike Ray
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How to stop your cat chewing on electrical cords and other objects

Chewing on electrical cords can burn or shock your cat, causing respiratory problems, cardiac arrest and even death. Cat's sharp teeth and their inquisitive nature can put your cat at high risk. This is especially an issue with kittens.

Here's what to do to:

1. Tape cords to the wall with electrical tape to help prevent your pet from gaining access to them.

2. Stow excess lengths of cord behind furniture or appliances, hidden from your cat's view. Cats are attracted to dangling cords and may think they are toys.

3. Block access to visible cords by wrapping flexible safety cable (available at hardware stores) around them. Tin foil works well too, or even a thicker model or extension cord (that is too big for a cat to chew on)

4. Place contact paper, sticky side up, in the general area of electrical cords to discourage your pet from approaching them.

5. Apply unpleasant-tasting substances to exposed cords. These could include bitter apple spray, menthol, toothpaste, mouthwash or lemon juice. Experiment with different flavors, since cats' taste aversions vary. You can also use Crittercord... It's a cord cover with a deterrent infused in it. Be sure to use a product for Cats though- similar products are available for killing rats so be careful what you buy!

6. Have favorite toys available to distract your pet from the cords, and rotate toys every few days to prevent boredom.

7. Keep your pet out of any room with exposed electrical cords until your furry friend loses interest in chewing on them.

My favorite solution is rubbing the cords with a bar of soap.

Moisten the soap, it makes application easier. The soap will last longer than the Bitter Apple sprays and is more effective than hot sauce (even habanero, which incidentally can get in the cat's eyes and be really painful). This works so well that you will probably see a reluctance to even reach for untreated cords, like a mouse or keyboard cord, where the same cat consistently would bite these before.

You need to understand that cats are smart creatures though they are also creatures of instinct. If you have something dangling around, such as a cord for a fan, your cat will naturally want to swat at it. She may even chew on it as it moves (literally moving your cat around like in old cartoons, just a bit slower).

Every interaction with your cat trains her. If she does something you don't like, and you pick her up and tell her she's naughty and put her in another room etc she's actually learning that if she does that bad behavior, she'll get attention from you! Which means she'll do the bad behavior more and more.

It's far better to ignore bad behavior and reward good behavior. To stop bad behavior interrupt her pattern with a squirt of water or use the above methods to make the experience not as pleasant as she thought it would be. (For example, chewing on cords might look like fun, but if they taste terrible, she'll soon learn that it's better to chew other things).

You should also know that problem behavior in cats is often a sign of stress, boredom or bad socializing when they were a kitten. To deal with stress and boredom provide lots toys, perches and places she can get away and relax and remember that love is the best medicine so give her plenty of attention.

If your cat is out of control due to bad socializing when she was a kitten, you can fix her behavior, though it may take longer. For example, giving her attention needs to be on HER terms...you may only be able to pat her for a small amount of time in one go, though over a few months she'll gradually allow you to pat her more and more as she gets used to it.

It's better to give her some attention and leave her wanting more then over doing it and only stopping when she scratches you and runs away.

Cats are amazing creatures, and once you understand their psychology, you'll get along with them like never before, enjoying perfect behavior from them and an even deeper bond.

By: Mike Ray
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How to Break Up a Cat Fight

Here are some tips on how to do it without hurting you or your cat...

1. Avoid hitting the cats or getting your hands anywhere near their mouths. Hitting could make the situation worse and could cause the attack to be redirected toward you.

2. Spray the aggressor with a water hose. If this doesn't make a difference, aim for the nostrils.

3. Hold a broom between the cats to separate them.

4. Use a noisemaking device such as an air horn to drive the animals apart, and be prepared to move away quickly or defend yourself.

5. The quickest way to break up a cat fight is loud hissing, spitting, and a glass of water appropriately applied (aim for the face).

6. Put a magazine or a newspaper between the two cats to block their vision of each other. This works where the cats are in a frozen position, but not yet making contact. It allows the frightened one to run away (if it can) and you can pick up the dominant one if it is tame. Without blocking the sight of the other cat, picking up or even touching the aggressive cat can make the attack start. Usually the frightened cat is cornered and can't get away, so your only option may be to move the aggressor after blocking it's view.

Abscesses resulting from cat fights can pose serious health risks and are expensive to treat.

A cat can become infected with feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) when it is bitten - such as in a cat fight. FIV will be transmitted only if the biting animal is carrying the virus.

There are some areas of the world that do not have FIV though it's far better to be on the safe side. Having a well trained cat that comes with called is the best preventative way of stopping cat fights. If the cats that are fighting are both your cats it's clearly a sign you need to make some changes to your household.

When cats are agressive usually it's because they are stressed. If the cat fights are the result of a new cat being introduced into your house you need to gradually introduce the cats to each other over the course of a few days and do your best to reduce the stress level of both cats.

To reduce your cat's stress, provide lots of perches so she can get away from other cats, and ideally have separate areas of the house they can live in, until they start to accept the other cat.

Patting one cat just after you've patted the other cat is an easy way of having them start to associate the smell of the other cat with you. This is vital as they'll be relaxed and enjoy your company (if they don't you've got bigger problems, be sure to read our other articles). They'll then link the good feelings they have about you with the other cat.

Within a week or so you should have a happy multi cat household. The same method applies to introducing a dog into the house (or breaking up a cat and dog fight).

If your cat has been hurt you should get your Vet to check her over. With so many cats now living in urban environments, problems between cats of different owners are increasing. You may want to de claw your cat and keep her inside (or simply trim her nails every so often and supply scratching posts- this is cheaper and more humane for her).

Indoor cats have a much longer life span and you get to bond with her as she is around more often. A well trained cat can be allowed outside but tends to want to be close to you most of the time. Something you can do to help this occur is to tell your neighbors to not feed your cat, that way even if your cat wonders she'll most likely come home when she's hungry.

By: Mike Ray
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How to Help Your Dog Lose Weight

Obesity is on the rise for canines. The reasons for this influx are similar to those that humans experience, too much food and too little exercise. The results of obesity are similar for your canine friends too. Studies reveal that 25% of overweight dogs experience severe joint problems. This effects their daily activities such as walking, standing and sitting. It also increases pain and makes jumping up or down off the bed difficult. If a dog is overweight its lungs cannot function properly- the extra fat pushes against the lungs and diaphragm and makes breathing more difficult. Carrying extra weight decrease ability to preform daily activities. It takes more work to do everything. Body systems have to do more than they were designed for because extra weight places strain on the heart, muscles and respiratory system. Because being overweight causes daily tasks to be more difficult and causes more pain, dogs can become more irritable. Dogs who are overweight have a shorter life span and a lower quality of life. However, there are several things that a pet owner can do to help their animals shed the pounds and live a longer, happier life.

Assessing Your Dog

One way to get an idea if your dog is overweight is by checking their ribs. The ribs should not be visible as they stand, but still detectable when you touch them or when they move (such as jumping in the air to catch a Frisbee). If you cannot feel your dogs ribs, they are probably overweight. The first and for most important measure though, is to take your dog to their veterinarian. Your dog should be seen on a yearly basis for a routine check up. One reason why visiting your veterinarian is so important is that some dogs do not look overweight. Large dogs can especially hide weight well. Your veterinarian will be able to decide if your dog is overweight and why. To help your veterinarian keep a record of what you are doing with your dog before you go. Record your dogs patterns such as sleeping, eating and exercise. In some cases weight issues might be due to medical conditions, such a thyroid problems, verses overeating and under exercising.

Feeding

Dog's have a strong need for affection. One reason dogs overeat is that pet owners use food as an easy way to show their affection. It is not recommended to do this. Using food as a means of reward trains your dog to seek food for affection. This adds to their weight gain and all the other associated problems. Instead, fill their need for attention with games, petting and playing or get a new toy or go for a walk. Habits are hard to break, so here are few tips to help you. Do not leave food out all day. Set a schedule and a location to eat. One meal per day (or two small ones) is all that a dog needs. Also, one day each week with no food will help burn excess fat which they have stored in their bodies. Dogs are trained in behavior. If they beg at the table and someone gives them food, they learn that begging results in getting what they want. To help change this pattern feed your dog before you eat and keep them in another room while you have dinner. After, take them out for a walk or to play a game so they feel loved and get the attention they need. Once new patterns have been decided upon make sure everyone in the family is on board. Otherwise someone might feel "sorry" for the begging dog and give them "just a little something" and this will slow down or prevent your dog's weight loss, especially if that "little something" is every day. Meet as a family to discuss the need for changes in your dog's diet and how your animal will be effected if you don't. This will help everyone understand why and help them keep the new rules.

Excercise

The enthusiasm for new changes might cause over doing exercise at first, but it is important not to do this. Start slowly, for just a few minutes a couple times a day. This will be sufficient at first and then you can slowly increase their activity. Encourage your dog to move around the house with you. Movement frequently and throughout the day is essential. If you take your dog out for a hard run to get him "in shape" it might do more harm than good. Especially when no exercise has been implemented in his routine before. A nice, leisurely walk is sufficient each day and then a couple of times a day as directed by your veterinarian. Another way to get movement is by playing games with your dog. As your dog increases in strength and endurance playing fetch is fun for the dog and helps them get in more activity. Follow your veterinarian's plan and keep appointments. This is especially important if the weight loss is significant.

Loving your pet is doing what is best for them. Increasing their activity and reducing their treats and table scraps will help them become their ideal weight. Your dog will move easier and breath lighter and you can sleep better knowing their health is on the right track.

By: Emma Snow
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How To Find A Good Dog Groomer

Selecting a good, professional and friendly groomer is an important part of caring for your dog. Since a groomer will usually be alone with your favorite pet it is important to make sure that they treat your animal well, notify you of any problems, as well as understand how to care for an clip your particular breed of dog.

There are several ways to find a good groomer and one of the most obvious is to talk to other dog owners that you see as you are out and about with your pet. Dog owners in general tend to be very willing to give recommendations as well as warnings about good and bad experiences they may have had with groomers in your area. If you see a dog that looks just like you want your dog or has just the clip that you have pictured for your dog be sure to speak with the owner and find out what groomer they use.

Some groomers work specifically on various types of dogs such as small, toy or large breeds. Many groomers are only set up to handle small dogs and do not work on large or giant breeds. Be sure to talk to the groomer in advance if you dog has any special needs or requirements.

Groomers have usually completed some sort of formal training and will not be offended if you ask for their credentials and some references from their customers. Most groomers will have this information already included in their brochure or advertising literature. Consider going to the facility by yourself before the first appointment and asking to watch them work with a dog. They may allow this or may not, but most groomers understand an owner's concerns and will do their best to work with the owner to ensure satisfaction.

Many groomers have affiliations with various breeders and organizations. A good, professional groomer will also assist you in selecting a clip or cut that is suitable for your dog and is appropriate for the show ring if this is a consideration. If the groomer is unfamiliar with the show requirements be sure to bring in exact pictures of what is allowable and what is not to avoid any confusion or misunderstanding regarding a cut or clip.

In addition to just washing, clipping and grooming your dog the groomer will also condition the coat, clip the nails, clean the ears and empty the anal glands. If you don't want any of these grooming services provided be sure to talk to the groomer in advance.

For those dogs that are nervous, timid or aggressive it is very important to discuss their temperament with the groomer prior to the first appointment. Most groomers will take dog-aggressive dogs only very early or as the last appointments in the day to avoid any possible complication in the waiting room or grooming salon. If you have a dog that has had a negative experience at another groomers or that snaps or tends to bite be sure to let the groomer know so he or she can take the appropriate precautions. Notify the groomer if the dog has any known allergies or is prone to skin rashes, hotspots, or dry skin conditions. If you have specialized products that you use with your dog you should make the groomer aware so they can have the same products on hand when the dog arrives for his or her first appointment.

By: Nancy Dean
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How To Clean Cat Urine

Why is a cat urine smell so difficult to remove even after you have cleaned the spot with a good cat urine cleaner?

Cat urine is comprised of three major components:

1. Urea - Sticky stuff

2. Urochrome - Pigments which give it color

3. Uric acid - The stinky part

It is generally conceded that many standard household cleaners would probably do to get rid of the first two if that was all that was involved. No specialized cat urine remover or cleaner would be required for that part of the task.

However, it is the last item, the Uric Acid, which accounts for that lingering reminder of, "Oh! You have a cat!" when there is no feline visible. It is also the reason why normal household cleaners will not work to clean cat urine effectively. What happens is that the Uric Acid part is comprised of crystals and salts, which, once dry, release relatively little odor. However, once the crystals and salts dampen again, with rain or humidity, for example, the pet odor comes back. Even steam cleaning a carpet in hopes of getting rid of the odor for good just dampens everything and brings the odor back to life.

This is the point at which you will need a specifically designed cat urine remover. The most effective products rely on bacteria and enzymes to actually eat up the last remnants of the Uric Acid and thus rid your home of the unpleasant odor. There are several of these products, such as "Simple Solution Cat Spray & Urine Stain & Odor Remover" which is available at PETCO. Many home remedies will recommend the use of vinegar to remove the smell. I have never tried this, but those who have tend to give mixed reviews to the process. Truly effective removal does seem to depend on the use of bacteria and enzyme based products.

A word of warning here. No matter what anyone may try to tell you about how to clean cat urine from carpets or furniture, do NOT ever try to use a product with ammonia in it as a cat urine cleaner. Cat urine contains ammonia, and by using that product, you have just provided a marker for your cat telling it where to do its business next time.

Sometimes, finding the offending spot can be difficult. One trick is to search with a black light. Remember, you will probably not be looking for a large puddle, particularly on carpet. The urine will have come out in a stream, so the actual spot visible in the black light may not be much larger than a pencil eraser. However, the problem will be that once in the carpet, the cat urine will seep into the backing, the pad, and possibly through to the floor itself. To effectively remove the cat urine smell and prevent further visits to that spot by your cat, it may be necessary to lift the carpet and clean the pad and the floor as well as the carpet itself.

By the way, one of the best things you can do to help cut down on odors associated with the litter box while decreasing the possibility of "accidents" is to keep the cat pan clean. Cats can be picky, and a dirty litter box can encourage your pretty Persian kitty to find another place to grace. Keep access clear to it, and make sure that your cat can get to it in time of need, even if there is company present.

By: Donovan Baldwin
Credit:www.superfeature.com

How To Train An Aggressive Dog

Not another dog training article I hear you say!

You are right, but in this article I will hopefully divulge a few hidden secrets that will ultimately help you train your aggressive dog.

Unruly dogs that frighten, upset or show aggression towards people you care about, people you meet on the street or people who visit your home can bring you more problems then you know. Having your life controlled by your dog's behaviour is definately not on. It is a worry for the whole family concerned and it causes a real strain on relationships. It is not right for your sake as well as your dogs.

In nearly every case of aggressive dogs known there will be common reasons that explain why they show signs of aggression like feeling extreme stress, anxiety or the need to control.. This can result in the dogs constant need to bark, unwanted toileting in the house and the snapping and snarling at strangers. All highly sensitive displays.

This is a terrible way for you and your dog to live. Most aggressive dogs are so because of their need to protect and serve their owners. Their way of showing affection develops into this compulsive desire to control their surroundings. Their behaviour gets worse as the owner, at the end of their tether, consistently constrains their dog and tells them off. This consequence of always reminding their dog they are bad, will damage your dogs confidence and shatter their remaining esteem which results in even worse behaviour. It is important to stop that cycle of reprimanding them all the time and start a cycle which is based on love, respect and rewards.

I know most owners would want a loving and well balanced relationship with their dogs and for their dog to be obedient so I have listed below a few ways you can help improve your dogs behaviour. It is important to keep this training up for however long it takes for your dog to be good.

1. When a dog latches onto their owner and does not allow anyone to come near, get in the habit of ignoring the dog. If you are on a bed, move the dog off. If you are standing in a room turn away. Do not look into the dogs eyes and remain calm. Do not show signs of fear, agitation or any other displays that will concern the dog and try to be still in the process. Work with a family member or a friend that you know the dog does not like. When the dog stops barking and pulling away from you quickly reward him and tell him he is a good boy. (Or girl of course) Repeat this process a few times until the dog clicks. Dogs are renowned for learning fast.

2. When people come to the door and presses the doorbell or knocks, walk calmly to the door. Open the door, greet your friend and ignore your dog if they are barking. Obviously do this with a good friend again. Remain calm. However, if the dog does not stop barking ask your friend to leave, keeping on ignoring your dog, close the door and walk back into the room. Again, not looking at your dog. Repeat the process until the dog stops barking. Ideally you should pick your dog up and place him at the lounge door and leave him there. Do not let him follow you to the front door. When the dog stops barking and is not chasing your friend, quickly greet him and reward him.

3. When walking in the street, use a restraining lead that covers the head area. The dog will find it hard to pull away as the head will jolt back into position. It is not cruel as it is used on dogs to control their behaviour and it does not hurt them. When your dog sees or approaches another dog or person who they bark at. Stop immediately. Say 'Heel" then turn abrubtly around and start walking back. Do this until the dog forgets and stops barking. When he is being good turn back around. If they continue to pull or get aggressive again repeat the process and Stop. Turn around. Your dog will soon learn a better behaviour.

4. If your dog is wetting themselves or toileting in your home it usually a sign of anxiety when being left by their owner. Get your dog more independant again and start closing them in a room for a while. Start this process for doing it just for a few seconds. Repeat this until you have accumulated longer pauses on their own. Do not give rewards to your dog as the idea is keeping your dog calm when you leave them alone. Practice going out of the house as well but in the beginning keep the periods of time short. Do not forget to remain calm and ignore your dog. It is also a good idea for your dog to start sleeping downstairs or in another room. Another great way of learning independance.

I hope you learned a little something from this article. I sincerely hope your dog and you continue to have a good and loving life together.

By: Nicola Tewhare
Credit:www.superfeature.com

How to Stop Your Dog From Barking

There are plenty of reasons why your dog would bark almost constantly. Although this may be frustrating, there may be some good reasons for this behavior. Your puppy may be alerting you of a threat or trying to tell you it is in pain.

There may be other less appropriate reasons why your dog would be behaving in this manner. They could be trying to get your attention or be acting out on purpose.

Nevermind the cause, a dog that won't quit barking can definitely give you a headache. When the behavior is recurring there are some techniques that you can attempt.

Most often, you can stop your dog from barking by trying a method of training. There are some exact methods and tools to help with the problem of a dog who barks too much.

Many cases of inappopriate barking can be controlled by proper training and a reward and reprimand system where you show the dog when its ok to bark and when not to. If your puppy barks at an inappropriate time, they are scolded and told "hush". When they are behaved and refrain from barking when they should not be, reward them to reinforce this positive behavior.

If the problem can not be fixed this way, you can want to think about the purchase of a bark collar. A bark collar will shock the dog with a very small current when it detects the dog barking. The shock gives the dog very small discomfort and does not actually hurt the dog. It should be noted that some owners don't like this method.

You will find a similar device available that instead of a shock gives the dog a mist of citronella. Dogs do not like the smell and they soon realize it is due to the barking.

In some extreme cases, your vet may consider your dog a candidate a procedure known as debarking surgery. This procedure involves removing a fold of tissue from the dog's larynx which leaves the dog unable to bark. This surgery isn't always effective and isn't often used.

A barking dog can definately drive you up the wall, as you can see it isn't a problem that can't be resolved. With the right amount of patience and training, you can put an end to your dog's incessant barking.

By: Amber Lowery
Credit:www.superfeature.com

How to Choose the Right Kind of Pet Food

Introduction
Species, age, activity level, environment and physiological conditions such as growth, pregnancy or nursing affect the nutritional needs of animals.

Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Steps
1. Step One
Choose food that mentions both the AAFCO (Association of American Feeding Control Officials) and Animal Feeding Trials on its label.

2. Step Two
Pick food that provides all nutrients for your pet, including water, energy, protein (essential amino acids and nitrogen), essential fatty acids, minerals and vitamins.

3. Step Three
Select pet food that's balanced. Nutrients must be present in the proper proportions.

4. Step Four
Choose food that's digestible. Nutrients must be easily broken down and made available to the animal.

5. Step Five
Recognize that feeding directions on labels can only be estimated and must be modified to fit individual pet needs. Check with your veterinarian.

6. Step Six
Consider the manufacturer's reputation when selecting brands. Generally, you should purchase brands that are priced higher.

Tips & Warnings
- Preserving food makes water unavailable for bacterial growth. Methods of preserving dog food include drying, salting and canning.
- Because of specific differences between dogs and cats, dog food (particularly vegetable-based) should not be fed to cats because of nutritional deficiencies.
- Your pet may not be receiving a balanced diet if more than 50 percent of it is made up of treats or human food.
- "Palatable" means food is appealing to eat but does not mean food is healthful.

By: Staff Expert
Credit:www.ehow.com